wheel alignment near 11801 Fundamentals Explained

Chris states: February 9, 2008 at 4:00 pm To start with I should say this site rocks!! I think that you are undertaking an awesome company. I've browse quite a few of those complications but haven't observed one that matches mine just. Some time back had the typical encoder motor problem where the truck would go into 4-lo or two-hi, but would flash and default to 2-hi when 4-hi switch depressed. Effectively Check out vacuum actuator under battery, Tccm, encoder motor plug,and so forth and all was fine. Simply because my battery was disconnected the DTCs had been reset and lo and behold my 4WD was Operating all over again. When 4wd was disengaged I'd personally get a whirring sounds out of your front end, like 4wd wasn’t fully disengaging the front diff. I'd personally cease the car or truck for a couple of minutes and it seemed to go away. Another day, on the way in which to work the sounds wouldn’t go away, so i tried putting it out and in of four-hi several times, right up until it blew the fuse.

It’s actually tough to explain to without the need of being able to place my palms on it. However, You may additionally want to examine the encoder motor signal traces (C26 by C28 on the pinout from the primary article) — they ought to be higher (+5VDC) when the are usually not in use (resistors pull the traces substantial), and very low when they are Lively (termed “Lively minimal”). All schematics are posted in the initial publish of this thread.

Hmmm… how ’bout incredibly hot glue? I truly plugged in the main connector to the module (soon after sealing all of it up with dielectric gel… which would have prevented this in the first place) and after that inserted the wire into pin #one and produced the link, and a similar for pin #6.

If there is not any connector, like I describe, then you are likely to will need One more list of schematics, and a person aware of that program.

Once i get additional time, I’ll tell you about all one other things which have gone Completely wrong with my Blazer For the reason that working day I drove it from the great deal, with twelve KM on it. It is, as so a number of other blogs I have study from Blazer owners on the internet, the Tale of the lemon.

Another point I found was that you choose to mentioned the lights about the sprint will flash if you push 4Hi — this lets you know which the button for 4Hi is working, and the TCCM is accepting the signal from it. So, it boils all the way down to a problem somewhere in between the TCCM along with the encoder motor — I would suspect the TCCM — possibly wiring, or possibly a nasty TCCM.

The grey with black stripe wire (GRY/BLK) at pin 5 is definitely the 4Hi signal wire — when urgent the 4Hi button, this wire must go warm (I haven’t examination the wire, so I’m undecided if it’s utilizing logic degrees (+5VDC) or battery power (+12VDC) — In either case, it should be sizzling once the button is pressed.

I've Chevy 2001 Blazer. The trouble I'd is the fact that I can’t switch on the related site 4Hi. So I went to dealership. The repair service costed me $900 to interchange the TCCM.

Preset that and however no 2hi. Once i attempt to improve from 4hi to 2hi I am able to hear the encoder motor & vacuum solenoid around the firewall do their task and in addition the Handle module clicking so I presume it’s performing it’s occupation. I've two lights on dash leading to be concerned, ‘Support 4wd’ & ‘ABS’. Would the abs system fault stop it from going into 2hi? I'm sure your not a mechanic but have you any info for me?

I've a 2003 chevy blazer and have no generate into the front axle. After i force the buttons the tccm clicks, the buttons light and stay lit it is possible to in this article the motor on transfer scenario operate (for a brief time) and no electrical power to front axle.

Hey $a hundred and forty is really darn fantastic when compared to several of the rates I've witnessed men and women get to fix their 4WD! Regards;

How with regard to the encoder motor connector? I'd suspect the latter, a) because it is more vulnerable to corrosion because of road salt, and so on. and b) because you said the motor kicked in when rapping to the TC which has a rubber mallet — that most likely caused shock in the connector/wiring, plenty of to engage the motor.

The cable connects to a “pin” about the differential. With cable disconnected through the “pin” within the diff. I am able to manually move it in and out under 1/4″ in. This could pull out or drive in closer to an inch or so suitable? Could this pin be flanged on another stop, not allowing it to drag out, or is there Another dilemma. Should I even open the diff. or maybe substitute it.

You recognize, it Seems an awefull great deal like what mine was doing — which turned out to be the “plastic” bushings concerning the forks Within the transfer situation.